That Old Ugly Beauty

When I was a kid, I was briefly in love with bridges in much the same way I was briefly in love with dinosaurs and outer space. My bridge of choice—while in elementary school I proclaimed it “the Mona Lisa of bridges”—was the I-74 bridge, a relatively rare identical-twin suspension bridge crossing the Mississippi River. Over the years, however, I’ve come to appreciate that the defining landmark of my hometown is in fact the ugliest of its three bridges: the Government Bridge.

Above, you can see the GB as it was drawn on a gorgeous but not-to-scale map from 1888. Built thirty years earlier, in 1856, the bridge connects Davenport, Iowa, with the government-owned Rock Island Arsenal. Below you can see how it looks today, looking from Rock Island toward Davenport.

The Government Bridge (or Arsenal Bridge, as Davenporters also call it) was the first to span the Mississippi and, because it served a federal installation, was approved by the Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis. As you might imagine, Davis was a loyal southerner, and he became worried that that the bridge’s construction all but guaranteed that a transcontinental railroad would go through the North. So in a fit of never-mind, he briefly stopped work on the project, but to no avail. It opened anyway. Oh, and another would-be Confederate helped to scout the bridge’s original location: Robert E. Lee, an engineer just out of West Point.

Here’s another image that shows how the bridge manages both rail and auto traffic.

The bridge’s spans swing open for river traffic (regularly and frustratingly backing up auto traffic). But in 1856, the whole process still needed some work. On May 6, the steamer Effie Afton slammed into the spanking new structure, destroying the steamer and with it one of the bridge’s spans. Steamboat companies predictably sued to tear down the bridge. And who was the lawyer the Rock Island Line hired to defend its river-crossing? Abraham Lincoln.

Here’s the bridge in 1940.

What I like about this photograph is the sense that you don’t need to see the whole bridge to understand its presence and importance. It has become iconic.

Finally, here’s an image of the old beauty that you have to squint to see. (In fact, I’d suggest clicking on the photo for a larger image.)

The shot is taken from a riverside parking lot in 1920s-era Davenport. The Indian that Abe Lincoln and his Illinois militia once battled has ingloriously given his name to a candy company, and Fort Armstrong, where Lee was first stationed and where Dred Scott first stepped onto free soil, can be seen jutting squarely up from the bridge’s Arsenal terminus.

I’m a little sentimental, I know, but I can’t get enough of this . . .

CORRECTION: The Government Bridge was the first railroad bridge to span the Mississippi.

Comments

[Parth]

I have always been fascinated by bridges. The town I grew up in, in India, had this stone bridge constructed in late 19th century, over a narrow inlet of the sea. We used to bike over and around it to get to school and sit on the walls of it all night long to smoke and talk.

[Laura]

The 74 bridge was frightening. I can remember closing my eyes and praying that we wouldn't fall off. God forbid Dad would pass someone while we were crossing. I was also fascinated with the arsenal bridge. I never understood why we would pay $.25 to go across the Centennial when the arsenal bridge was right there and it was free. How much does it cost to cross the Centennial now? Thanks for the sentiment!

[Brendan Wolfe]

Thanks for the comments, Parth and Laura.

I don't believe the Centennial Bridge costs anything to cross these days. And for those of you who don't know what we're talking about, here's a link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_Island_Centennial_Bridge

Like your dad, Laura, my mom has always been terrified of the I-74 bridge. It's really narrow and she is constitutionally incapable of passing anyone (or turning left, for that matter). And the bridge is notoriously crowded, its on-ramps elaborate invitations to a pile-up, and during the winter -- God help you. It's very, very icy.

But the Centennial? Gorgeous! Seriously. Go to a ballgame and admire. Tell me I'm wrong:

http://www.city-data.com/picfilesc/picc16360.php